How to Summit Three Fingered Jack

Did you know Three Fingered Jack is often compared to Oregon's version of the Matterhorn? This jagged and iconic peak, located in Central Oregon, offers a challenging yet awe-inspiring adventure for experienced climbers and hikers.

Summiting can be deadly; know your limits, have a navigation system in place, and understand that rocks can shift at anytime. Use caution when pulling on rocks for hand and foot holds; volcanic rock requires mindful movement.

Three Fingered Jack is a heavily weathered and eroded shield volcano with a composition of mostly basaltic andesite. Estimated to be between 500,000 to 250,000 years old, this extinct volcano's dramatic spires and ridges are shaped by centuries of volcanic activity and glacial erosion, making it one of the most captivating climbs in the state.

Summiting Three Fingered Jack is an exhilarating journey requiring both skill and preparation. The ascent includes two notable pitches, each presenting unique challenges:

The Crawl: A 15-foot low fifth-class traverse with significant exposure. Look for two pitons available to clip into for protection. Solid handholds, or "jugs," are easy to spot and use here.

The Chimney: A steep, 15-foot climb rated at 5.2. This section requires climbing gear, such as cams and nuts, to safely ascend.

At the end of each pitch, you'll find webbing for belaying and rappelling, but always bring your own webbing and rap rings to ensure safety in case the existing gear appears worn or unsafe.

For this climb, the following equipment is recommended:

Whether you're taking on the technical climb of Three Fingered Jack or simply marveling at its rugged beauty, this adventure invites you to connect with the land in a meaningful way. Remember, every step and hold is a moment to reflect on the journey rather than the destination.