Safety Warning
- Summiting North Sister demands preparation, skill, and attention. Loose volcanic rock shifts without warning.
- Route-finding skills and navigation equipment are mandatory.
- This is not a maintained trail above the glacial moraine.
North Sister is a basaltic-andesite stratovolcano in Central Oregon. This is considered to be a technical climb to the summit. This guide covers the route, geology, and what to expect.
Warning
Summiting requires self-awareness and preparation; know your limits, have a navigation system in place, and understand that rocks can shift at anytime.
Discovering North Sister: Geology and Legacy
North Sister is a basaltic-andesite stratovolcano located in Central Oregon. The heavily eroded/weathered volcano is the oldest of the Three Sisters and is considered to be 120k to 45k years old; the formation of this volcano started after the eruptions of Broken Top volcano ended.
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See PathfinderThe Technical Ascent: Gear and Route Highlights
This is considered to be a technical climb to the summit. It is recommended to use ropes, cams, slings/webbings; though we ended up soloing it due to our experience and comfortability summiting Cascade volcanoes. We HIGHLY recommend wearing a helmet. The route to the summit is CHOSSY and lots of loose rocks are continuously being slushed off the volcano.
Summit Route Breakdown and Beta
From Obsidian trailhead, this is a strenuous 16.4 mile hike (round-trip) with a 5,289' elevation gain. This trailhead requires a special limited access permit that can be bought on recreation.gov. Permit season starts June 15th and ends October 15th.
- Crossing Collier Glacier: The approach starts by traversing Collier Glacier, requiring awareness of changing snow and ice conditions throughout the climbing season.
- Southwest Ridge "Choss-Fest": Following the glacier, you ascend a steep, loose southwestern ridge with a faint path guiding your way.
- The "Terrible Traverse": Contrary to its daunting name, this traverse is often the easiest part of the climb, leading to a solid rock "ramp."
- The Bowling Alley (Class IV Climb): This is the crux section of the climb, a steep, narrow chute that demands careful climbing, typically aided by technical gear. Climb on the right side of the Bowling Alley to reach the ridge.
- Final Pinnacle: The summit pinnacle offers solid holds and a breathtaking vista of the Cascades, providing a rewarding finish to the climb.
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