How to Climb Dirty Pinkos: A 5.9+ Multipitch at Smith Rock State Park

Smith Rock State Park is a climbing mecca, home to iconic routes that challenge and inspire adventurers from around the world. Among these is Dirty Pinkos, a 5.9+ sport multipitch that promises an unforgettable experience with its unique 120-foot traverse and stunning views of the park's eastern side. If you're looking for a climb that blends technical challenges, rewarding pitches, and breathtaking scenery, Dirty Pinkos is a must-try.

Pitch 1 (Warm-Up Slab): The climb begins on a slab that ascends along a left corner. This pitch is straightforward and enjoyable, ending at a comfortable top-belay station. It's a great introduction to what lies ahead.

Pitch 2 (The Crux): The second pitch is the crux of Dirty Pinkos, featuring technical climbing with thoughtful movement. This section will test your skills and ends on a hanging belay, so be prepared for an exhilarating challenge at the 5.9+ grade.

Pitch 3 (The Money Pitch): This is where Dirty Pinkos earns its reputation. The third pitch is a stunning 120-foot traverse to the right, requiring 16 quickdraws. With significant rope drag, climbers are advised to bring alpine draws for smoother movement and to reduce friction. The exposure on this pitch is unmatched, offering panoramic views of the park as you move horizontally across the face.

Pitch 4 (Topping Out on Misery Ridge): The final pitch starts on an easy 5.5 slab before transitioning to a slight overhang with a 5.8 crux. The climb finishes with a rewarding top-out on Misery Ridge, providing incredible views and a sense of accomplishment after this adventurous route.

We highly recommend hiking down Misery Ridge rather than rappelling. The hike is straightforward and allows you to fully enjoy the views as you descend.

If you choose to rappel, note that it requires descending a different route, which can be confusing. With a 70m rope, you may be short-changed by about 15 feet, forcing you to scramble down a rock face without protection. For safety and ease, the Misery Ridge hike is the better choice.

Dirty Pinkos offers everything you could want in a sport multipitch: technical challenges, unique features like the 120-foot traverse, and a spectacular top-out on Misery Ridge. Whether you're a seasoned climber or looking to push your limits, this route delivers an unforgettable experience in one of Oregon's most iconic climbing destinations.